This dish deserves an entire article to itself, simply because it is extremely difficult to make. Generally headcheese preparation is a time consuming process; however this smoked head cheese takes the cake. In this preparation the head is cured, smoked then braised before being broken down then packed together into a lovely smoke terrine. Obviously, I do not expect every home cook to attempt to recreate this dish. The purpose of this article is to detail our first charcuterie adventure and demonstrate how to add a smoke flavor to this classic French recipe.
The head was cured for three days before being cold smoked for three hours. The cold smoking allowed me to infuse the head with smoke flavor without cooking it. All of the cooking was done in the braising liquid. That liquid acted as a binding agent for the terrine; therefore I wanted the collagen existing in the head to break down into the liquid. Unlike most cured items the head was not washed after being removed from the cure this is because the cure present on the head seasoned the braising liquid.
I prefer to work with a head that has been split down the middle making it easier to season and smoke; however this step is not necessary (a whole head can be used in this recipe) This Fromage de tete was the most difficult dish I’ve attempted but was the most satisfying to eat. Making something delicious out of a part of an animal that would repulse most was the most gratifying part of my charcuterie adventure.
Smoked Fromage de tete:
1. 3 lb hog head, sawed in half
2. 1/2 cup salt
3. 1/4 brown sugar
4. 3 sprigs thyme
5. 3 sprigs rosemary
6. 3 tbsp garlic confit
7. 2 tsp pink salt
8. 3 carrots, roughly chopped
9. 2 celery stalks, roughly chopped
10. 1 large white onion, chopped
11. 1 bunch parley stems
12. 3 bay leaves
13. 1/4 cup dry red wine
14. Cheese cloth
15. Plastic wrap
16. 4 qts water
17. Bucher’s twine
Cure:
Combine sugar, garlic confit, salt, pink salt, rosemary and thyme in a mixing bowl. Place the head in a non reactive container just large enough to fit the head. Throughly rub the cure onto the head, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 72 hours.
Smoke:
Preheat smoker to 60 degrees. Remove head from cure and place on a large baking sheet. Smoke head for 3 hours.
Braise:
Using butchers twine wrap carrots, celery, onion and parsley stems in two layers of cheese cloth. Add smoked head, stuffed cheese cloth, red wine and water to a large pot. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Let simmer for 3 hours.
Terrine Assemble:
Remove head from braising liquid. Strain liquid, set aside, discard cheesecloth. Pull all of the meat off of the head, remove tongue and ears. Chop meat into 3/4 inch dice, cut tongue into 1 inch dice, thinly slice ears. Line terrine mold with plastic leaving enough overhang to cover terrine. Place meat, ears and tongue into the mold evenly distributing each component throughout the terrine. Pour enough braising liquid to completely cover the meat. Wrap the terrine and refrigerate for 4 hours.
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